It took a few beats, but the spot formerly known as Hult’s and then Flights is now open as Hercules Draft House and Cantina.

Originally conceived as a beer-focused hangout, the business model now includes a Latin menu with everything from ceviche to posole to fish tacos, plus chile relleno and birria. The décor is understated, with wood surfaces everywhere, including a live-edge grand table, situated adjacent to what used to be Alex Hult’s wall of wine and is now a wall of tastefully placed succulents.

Heading up Hercules is Chef Beltran Reyes, one of those instantly endearing chefs whose sunny disposition and inner drive have brought him to the point of fulfilling a long-held dream to prepare beautiful food and eventually have his own place.

“When I came here in 2009 from Guatemala, I was 18,” Reyes says. “I got a job as a dishwasher in Palo Alto. This was not what I wanted to do forever! I was working two jobs and asked the owner at one if I could work in the kitchen. He asked how old I was and if I had experience. I was 19. No kitchen experience, but I want to learn. I want to do this!”

One of seven children, his father died young, and Reyes went to work in the fields, growing watermelons, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage and corn. He loved growing produce, but he imagined a better life. It took him almost two months to reach the U.S., mostly on foot and by train. His three brothers also emigrated, and all work in the Bay Area, while his three sisters and mother still live in Guatemala.

The empanadas on the menu are an homage to his Central American roots, and so is the Parrilada, which features hangar steak, Mexican chorizo, carnitas, jumbo shrimp and grilled nopal. It’s essentially a South of the Border party platter.

“The Mole de Rancho is my own recipe—secret chiles and everything you get from the fields,” Reyes says. “The Mexican story of mole goes back to a time when there was little to eat, and different people from different villages brought what they had—some chiles, some spices, different things—and they cooked them all together to make this incredible sauce.”

Reyes was the opening chef at RELISH! in Gilroy, a second outpost by owner Janice Albright of Big Basin Burger Bar, who also opened Carmel Burger Bar earlier this year. He has created some beautiful fish dishes while at The Palms.

“I love halibut. Give me the whole big beautiful fish,” he says, gesturing with arms as wide as they can stretch. “I will make something of the entire thing.”

Although halibut is not on the menu at Hercules, he does serve salmon adobado, seasoned with adobo and served with jasmine rice and mango-papaya salsa. Another specialty is Asado, a hangar steak with grilled nopal and onions and a secret sauce.

The handmade corn tortillas, delicious and perfectly sized, make a serious taco, whether filled with shrimp, chicken, steak or al pastor. When served as quesabirria, they are stuffed with mozzarella, onions, cilantro and divinely tender beef that has been stewed to tender perfection. They cook up crispy and light, so mouthwateringly good that you don’t need the burria consommé. But, yes, you do.

To accompany all this goodness, there is a vast cocktail menu featuring Espolon, Avion and Luna Azul tequila drinks like La Laguna, with Espolon blanca, lime and blue Curacao. Instead of sitting in traffic on Highway 17, La Playa can conjure up images of sun and sand with a blend of Luna Azul bianco, Vida mescal, lime, agave, mandarin and tangerine.

Beer on draught includes Fieldwork, Bare Bottle, Discretion and Gilman, plus seasonal rotations.

Hercules Draft House and Cantina, 165 Saratoga-Los Gatos Road, Los Gatos. Hours are Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m. -9 p.m., Friday, 11 a.m. -10 p.m., Saturday, 9 a.m. -10 p.m., and Sunday, 9 a.m. -9 p.m. 408-402-3131(no website yet).

Source: www.mercurynews.com