Pandemic restrictions and varying comfort levels left many of us a bit vacation challenged this year. If you’re yearning to enjoy these gorgeous autumn days somewhere other than home, may we suggest a Bay Area day trip?
The seaside town of Half Moon Bay — or Coastside, if you’re a local — beckons with promises of seafood bites, pumpkin patches and choose-your-own adventures. Knowing how to navigate it is the first step.
“There are two types of people who visit the Coastside — those that turn left, and those that turn right,” says Colleen Henney, owner of the recently opened Jupiter & Main shop downtown, describing the point where Highway 92 meets the Pacific Coast Highway.
Coastside offers two distinct areas: Princeton-by-the-Sea’s harbor — turn right! — and the historic downtown that greets left turners. The fun reality is that you can go all the ways, hitting up the gems that lie in every direction. So here’s what awaits, from coastal trails to eateries, distilleries, golden gourds and brand new hot spots.
Sea and soil adventures
If you’ve taken the “turn right” option to head north on Highway 1, you’ll be headed toward Pillar Point, where a sandy cove shelters two public piers and a bustling fishing industry — and the seafood lovers who flock to the harbor to buy fresh fish off the boats or chowder to enjoy right this minute.
You’ll find an abundance of seafood-centric spots to tuck into, including the venerable Ketch Joanne Restaurant and Harbor Bar at 17 Johnson Pier, where an old-school menu offers eight variations on the fish and chips theme. Barbara’s Fishtrap, another local landmark right nearby, is doing takeout with a side of ocean views. The Old Princeton Landing Public House & Grill — OPL to Coastsiders — is just around the corner. The OPL menu skews slightly tropical, and there’s live music nearly every weekend, with surprise drop-in guests from time to time (Neil Young!). Don’t miss the always popular, perpetually crowded Sam’s Chowder House on Highway 1.
If you’re looking for pumpkins, rather than chowder, you’ll find several farms overflowing with autumnal goodies along this stretch. Farmer John’s and neighboring Andreotti Farms offer a one-stop shop for pumpkins and U-pick sunflowers. (The ever-popular Arata’s Pumpkin Farm, established in 1932 and home to the legendary Minotaur’s Labyrinth Hay Maze, lies on the opposite edge of town.)
And if you’re still hungry, but not in a chowder frame of mind, head for The Barn, a lovely rustic pit stop for artisan burgers, milkshakes, espresso and fresh pie.
Details: Ketch Joanne opens at 11 a.m. weekdays, 8:30 a.m. weekends at 17 Johnson Pier; www.ketchjoannerestaurantharborbar.com. Barbara’s Fishtrap opens at 11 a.m. daily at 281 Capistrano Road; www.barbarasfishtrap.com. Old Princeton Landing opens at 11 a.m. Monday-Thursday and 9 a.m. Friday-Sunday at 460 Capistrano Road; www.oplhmb.com. And Sam’s Chowder House, at 4210 Highway 1, opens at 11:30 a.m. weekdays, 10:30 a.m. weekends; www.samschowderhouse.com.
Find Farmer John’s (from 9 a.m. daily) at 850 Highway 1, www.farmerjohnspumpkins.com; Andreotti Family Farm (10 a.m.) at 800 Highway 1, www.andreottifamilyfarms.com; and Arata’s Pumpkin Farm (9 a.m.) at 185 Verde Road, www.aratasfarm.com.
The Barn opens at 11 a.m. Wednesday-Sunday at 3068 Highway 1; www.thebarnhmb.com
Newer hot spots
Plump pumpkins are an undeniable draw, but it’s worth a wander to explore some of Half Moon Bay’s new or lesser known spots. You’ll find several in the quieter warehouse and scrapyard dotted side streets, where two distilleries have set up shop within a mile of the tourist nexus near the harbor.
The Half Moon Bay Distillery — and its coastal vodka and gin — have been on the spirits scene since 2014. Now they’ve been joined by the new Jettywave Distillery, which opened in January. Perched on a lovely, landscaped corner lot, the sleek Jettywave tempts with outdoor seating and a Swell Lounge menu of creative and vintage cocktails, kid-friendly lemonade and tasty bites from former Cafe Gibraltar chef Jose Luis Ugalde. (An indoor tasting bar is scheduled to open by year end.)
Kitty corner from here, Moon Mother’s Nursery offers a sweet escape into a green world of air plants, garden art and … more pumpkin stuff.
Details: The Half Moon Bay Distillery opens at 11 a.m. weekends only at 103 Harvard Ave.; www.hmbdistillery.com. Jettywave opens at 3 p.m. Fridays, noon on weekends at 155 Broadway; www.jettywave.com. Moon Mother’s Nursery opens at 10 a.m. Thursday-Sunday at 401 Prospect Way; www.moonmothersnursery.com.
Downtown attractions
Other temptations lie along Main Street in the city’s charming downtown where the “turn left!” crowd congregates. Coleen and Kevin Henney’s Jupiter & Main is a hip mercantile-meets-apothecary shop filled with a curated selection of things you never knew you needed, but now have to have — plaid blankets, retro camp-style plates, field guides, soaps, shaving brushes and more.
Don’t miss Gulino Gelato, Jean Paul Gulino’s pocket-sized scoop shop, which opened in 2019 and has already outgrown its space. (A bigger location with expanded offerings is coming soon.)
And that little red caboose nearby is neither under the radar nor new, but definitely worth a stop. It’s Dad’s Luncheonette, where chef Scott Clark (from Michelin-starred Saison) crafts tasty roadside fare.
Details: Downtown, Jupiter & Main opens daily at 10 a.m. at 432-B Main St.; www.jupiterandmain.com. Gulino Gelato opens at 11 a.m. Thursday-Sunday at 643 Main St, Suite 6; www.gulinogelato.com. And Dad’s Luncheonette opens at 11 a.m. Thursday-Sunday at 225 Highway 1; www.dadsluncheonette.com.
Coastal indulgence
Anyone craving some alone time these days? At the very southern end of town, perched at the edge of a cliff, the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay offers a classic seaside resort feel, with muted colors and open views to the crashing waves below. A stay here is, of course, a splurge (room rates start in the high $800s), but you can enjoy some of the luxe amenities without booking a room — a spa day pass ($100 for non-overnight guests), for example, grants access to the hotel’s sauna, steam room, soaking tub and other spa amenities for a day of relaxation.
And one perk is free: The coastal trail that borders the property is open to the public, with coastal access parking on the south side of the resort and 25 spaces in the resort’s garage. And if you happen to jog along near sunset, you’ll get a front-row view of a bagpipe player honoring the day’s exit.
Details: Find details on the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, its rooms, spa and Navio restaurant at 1 Miramontes Point Road, www.ritzcarlton.com.